Bâtard纽约米其林一星法餐

来源:是Bâtard不是Bastard:成大事者,不铺桌布
发布于 2015年08月09日

我很少吃法餐。不知道是不是受了单位里那位法国CEO还是吃货小伙伴D君的感染,从心理上,是有点抗拒的—“我们从来不在法国以外的地方吃法国菜”—没错,我们公司的法国人就是这么傲娇了。这种“变相歧视”,在我去巴黎大吃特吃以后,似乎更加变本加厉,吃饭时候,看见法餐总是绕着走。

当然另一方面,怪也怪纽约的法国菜不争气,Lafayette一类小馆子不好吃也就罢了,连Per Se都表现平平,实在有愧三星(太好了我终于找到机会吐槽了)。仔细想来,性价比最高、让我翻来覆去吃过几次的法国菜,也就只有TriBeCa的这家Bâtard了。不过,很快可能要有另一家了,正是这家的姐妹店,敬请期待后续报道。

这是觅食第31篇文章,希望你喜欢。

Bon Appétit🍷

推荐菜式

OCTOPUS“PASTRAMI” 章鱼“烟熏肉”

CHILLEDPEA SOUP 薄荷青豆冷汤

CARAMELIZEDMILK BREAD 焦糖牛奶面包

 

13年年底,和我一样都是Placebo脑残粉的英国厨师Paul Liebrandt,宣布离开TriBeCa备受好评的米其林二星餐厅Corton,令不少纽约食客深为扼腕。开在这个位置的餐厅,似乎总是不太好运,Corton的前身Montrachet,在营业12年后草草结业,而它的继任,终也没逃过关张的命运。正当所有人以为,翠贝卡与西村交界处的这个铺面行将就此空置,两间餐厅幕后投资人、名店Nobu创始人、纽约餐饮圈红人,头衔很多的Drew Nieporent却冷不丁宣布,一家名为Bâtard的餐厅将接替Corton,延续他本人的勃艮第情结—

勃艮第(Burgundy)那些盛产特级葡萄酒的村镇,大家是很耳熟能详了—Corton也好,Bâtard-Montrachet也罢,皆典出于此。Drew Nieporent对勃艮第的情有独钟,正是这一系列餐厅诞生的始因,但在纽约安身立命之根本,还在于主厨能耐几何—坐镇Bâtard后厨的,是奥地利人Markus Glocker,辗转在伦敦Claridge’s酒店和纽约The London酒店的餐厅厨房,师从骂起人来非常可怕的Gordon Ramsay,并在维也纳、柏林、芝加哥等地多间米其林餐厅都留下足迹的他,首度担纲一间高级餐室的执行主厨,倒显得十分游刃有余。老辣的厨师星探Nieporent,又怎会看人走眼?

当然,Glocker先生并不是一个人在战斗。推开两道玻璃门,迎面一位身着休闲西服、头发灰白却极优雅的中年男子报以迷人的微笑,寒暄片刻、轻车熟路地领你去往订好的餐座— John Winterman,著名法餐Daniel前任maître d’hôtel—你知道,出色的餐厅经理/领班,对于一家高级餐厅的回头率,亦有着不输主厨的决定性作用。

▲右边老帅了老帅了!好的我的口味你们都知道了

坐定之后,你最先注意到的,必然是餐桌居然没有铺桌布!尽管侍者的忙乱或可被归结为餐厅尚在初创业调整阶段,但那明显高于正常高级餐厅的音量,又作何解释?

Nieporent从一开始就交代得很清楚—所有人都有权利享受美食,Bâtard的顾客,绝不仅限于那些习惯了雪白桌布、严谨侍者和禁止喧哗的高大上食客。抛弃传统高端餐厅的繁文缛节,谈笑风生与随意穿着成了这儿的主旋律,就连点菜方式也颇令人诧异—虽然卖得是三种价格的定价菜单(Prix Fixe),餐厅却不强制按照前菜、主菜或甜点的定式选菜—只要你愿意,79美元的四道菜菜单,全部要甜点也没人拦你⋯⋯

▲ 我最喜欢有圆台面的餐厅了

虽然不拘小节,但在食物方面,Bâtard却丝毫没有妥协的意思—严格尊崇法式烹饪对技巧、食材和摆盘的全方位高标准严要求,Bâtard的餐食,是一等一的赏心悦目。省去一道发胖的甜点,得以同时拿下两道犹豫不决的前菜—

Glocker先生那道著名的青豆冷汤,用以开场夏日晚餐简直无懈可击;传统的薄荷青豆泥冷汤细腻而爽口,盘底的醋渍生鲽鱼肉则极嫩,微酸的口感同清新豆泥形成微妙反差,煎西洋牛蒡(Salsify)薄脆美观之余更添层次,而最妙的莫过于装点用的豆苗嫩叶—豆即入汤,叶作陪衬。

烟熏章鱼冷盘则是当晚记忆最深刻的一道;与其说是Pastrami(熏肉),做法倒是比较接近Salami(冻肉香肠)—将章鱼与酱汁盛在容器中凝固再切片,但整道菜的亮点却在于陪衬—喷香的碎蹄髈肉与圆熟可爱的小土豆零落装点,再缀以酸劲十足的法国著名的柏马瑞芥末黄酱,不同食材间的质地、口感与味觉切换,忍不住边吃边赞不绝口。

主菜选了焙烤多宝鱼,鲜嫩口感似极了中餐馆的清蒸多宝鱼,当然,蛋黄上浆配盐烤南瓜籽的做法不太寻常,再来一滩宛如青豆泥的欧芹酱也算可圈可点。

去第二次时,恰逢冬天,主菜就选了新英格兰鹿肉(Venison),虽然吃口略咸,但巧克力口味的神奇配酱,与鹿肉倒很登对。前菜方面则试了大受好评的烤甜菜沙拉(Beets Linzer),榛子、甜菜、黑加仑配法式酸奶油;另一道猪头肉,做法像传统硝肉,却片得极薄,简直如同Cappacio,浸在橄榄油里,摆盘极美,但老实说并没有章鱼来得好。

而这一次,也终于吃到那道著名甜点,焦糖牛奶面包( Caramelized milk bread),我对这道甜点究竟爱到了一个什么程度呢?请参考这个公众号的头像,也就是本文题图。

平凡无奇的面包片吸饱了牛奶,又在糖里打过滚,表面烧成焦糖,配一勺黄糖冰淇林和应季的蓝莓,小巧玲珑得让人舍不得下口;而这一口咬下去,更让人难忘:酥脆坚硬的焦糖外壳与柔嫩的牛奶面包芯,口感的碰撞让人不得不佩服甜点师的巧心思;Zagat称之为“法式焦糖布丁与法式烤土司的完美结合”,此话真真不假。一勺略带咸味的黄糖奶油冰淇林,同样秉持咸甜对撞、“不打不相识”,把卡路里之罪恶进行到底。

▲ 甜点倒是有点Aquavit主厨的真传

至于酒单上那毫无避讳的几大页勃艮第葡萄酒,与其选择困难症,不如唤来侍酒师咨询一番。酒足饭饱,“毫无门槛”的Bâtard,甚至还准备了极具娱乐性的餐后活动—只要同侍者打个招呼,便能进入餐厅厨房,主厨最神秘的核心战场,一探究竟啦!

人均消费: 两道菜 $55 | 三道菜 $69 | 四道菜 $79

氛围:经典路数,但其实一点儿都不拘束

着装:随便你!不要拖鞋。

音量:中到大⋯⋯

服务:超级嗲!!!领班好看疯了!

获奖情况:2015年米其林指南一星;《纽约时报》三星;2015年James Beard Award年度最佳新餐厅

 

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来源:The More Things Change, the Better They Get at NYC’s Batard

Were I to list the most important, as well as influential, restaurateurs of the past 30 years, Drew Nieporent’s name would be pretty close to the top. The man is a born host, gregarious, scrappy, gossipy and very serious about his food and wine.

I might as easily hail Nieporent for his charity work as for his restaurants—raising $1 million for the Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund, benefit dinners for Citymeals-on-Wheels, and much more that have earned him the Humanitarian of the Year Award in 2000 from the James Beard Foundation. But in the world of gastronomy, Nieporent—whom I’ll call Drew from here on—and his Myriad Restaurant Group are counted as one of the most innovative in the industry.

It all really began with a restaurant called Montrachet, which opened three decades ago on an unlighted, cobblestone street in TriBeCa with more cracks than surface, back then a no man’s land not so much because it was dangerous but because it was nowhere. What Drew did with Montrachet, with a loan from his mother and the talents of his first chef David Bouley, was to throw lights on West Broadway by opening up a moderately priced French restaurant that won immediate media acclaim and became one of the must-go places that influenced so many to follow.

Myriad went on to open the first Nobu, then more of them, and TriBeCa Grill is still counted among New York’s most iconic restaurants. There were some missteps along the way, overexpansion in obscure locations like Telluride, and some catty feuds with his chefs.

As crowds waned at Montrachet, Drew re-invented it as Corton, also much praised for chef Paul Liebrandt’s highly creative cuisine but too cerebral for too many people. So Drew closed it again, and, with partner John Winterman, re-opened as Batard (all the restaurant’s names have referred to Burgundy), with Austrian-born Markus Glocker, formerly chef de cuisine at NYC’s Gordon Ramsay at The London, as well as Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago and Restaurant Steirereck in Vienna. The crowds are again building.

2014-07-31-BATARDGUYS.jpg

Photo: John Winterman, Drew Nieporent and Chef Markus Glocker

Not too much has been done to the premises (above), although several tables—and all the tablecloths—have been removed. The minimalist, unadorned bas-relief walls have a golden shimmer and the lighting is excellent. I’d only love to have a small pot of highly colorful flowers on the naked tables. And it’s loud (that is under current consideration).

What’s also changed, to everyone’s delight, are the prices, now a very reasonable $55 for two courses, $65 for three and $75 for four. (By comparison to restaurants in Batard’s league, the main courses alone at Gotham Bar & Grill run $36-$52; at Gramercy Tavern the three-course menu is $92; at Dovetail, four courses run $88.) And while the wine list has been whittled down a bit, it’s still formidable and very well priced, especially for some Burgundies they’ve had a for a long while that you won’t find easily at these prices.

With my party of four, I ranged over a menu of just the right size—eight starters, seven main courses, plus a couple of specials—from a lovely chilled pea soup with unexpected and delicious slivers of fluke, braised shallots and salsify crumble to Octopus pastrami with braised ham hock, Pommery mustard and new potatoes, which shows off a bit of Glocker’s Austrian heritage. Lobster was perfectly cooked, served with green asparagus, zucchini blossom, and citrus rind, while Parmesan-drenched risotto was properly tender, perked up with pickled sunchokes, garbanzo beans and lovage.

Apparently a big hit, and for good reason, “rabbit flavors of bouillabaisse” with saffron ravioli, turnips, carrots and a sauce rouille is just novel enough to applaud and classic enough to acknowledge. Viennese tradition comes into charming play with Glocker’s crisp and buttery baby chicken schnitzel with potato salad, the tubers cooked in lovage-infused veal stock.
Lamb for two is indeed generous enough for a couple ($15 supplement), plated as a generous roasted rack, shoulder confit, crispy lamb bacon, fava beans and tangy lemon, arriving in a Creuset ramekin.

2014-07-31-BATARDDISHES.jpg

For your third course you must decide between a superb selection of perfectly ripe cheeses or four desserts, all of them very good, from Key lime pie with a buckwheat crust, cilantro and herbal ice cream to a caramelized milk bread with fennel yogurt, strawberries and brown butter ice cream. The banality of all those dense Black Forest cakes of the past is here redeemed with a rich, moist chocolate sablée, kirsch chantilly, Bing cherries.

If the restaurant at 239 West Broadway needed redemption, Drew Nieporent certainly hasn’t. He remains not just vital to New York’s restaurant scene but at this point has achieved the station of an elder who still has much to tell those flailing about in mere novelty about the true excellence in maturity.

 

来源:Been There, Ate That

239 West Broadway, at White Street

www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com

Notable Chef/Owners, Modern Fine Dining, French, Prix-Fixe, Recently Opened

Chef: Markus Glocker

Recently, I had the pleasure of dining at Bâtard, one of the most highly anticipated restaurant openings for the Spring. Read about my experience below.

Crowd

While Bâtard is somewhat upscale/French, the ambiance was more young and relaxed than we had expected. The restaurant was buzzing and slightly loud. The crowd consisted of Tribeca neighborhood goers and food enthusiasts. Patrons were very “Tribeca”- mature/trendy, ranging from late 20’s – late 30s. No signs of pretentious staff here. With a more accessible menu and setting than it’s predecessor, Bâtard welcomes all diners with open arms.

Decor

The decor is basic, sleek and modern. Banquettes with wooden tables sans tablecloths line the perimeter of the space. There are also a number of free standing round tables that are perfect for groups of 5-6. Low lighting complimented the golden floral patterned walls and helped round out the more “hip” feel.

Menu & Cuisine Highlights

We tried 5 of the 16 savory courses. The standouts were the octopus pastrami and the veal tenderloin. The octopus and veal were both cooked to perfection. The veal was tender and melt in your mouth good, all the flavors came together in a perfect harmony. The octopus was unusual and outstanding- just as addicting as eating pastrami at the Katz’s counter while waiting for your order.

The tortellini lay over a bed of sauce with a hint of sweetness. They were good, but nothing to write home about. We’d order the lobster again and pass on the oysters.

Separated into three sections, 8 starters, 8 mains and 5 desserts

What we ordered:

  • Warm kusshi oysters (fried pig tails, pickles)
  • Maine lobster (green asparagus, zucchini blossom, citrus rind)
  • Octopus “pastrami” (braised ham hock, pommery mustard, new potatoes)
  • Black olive tortellini (preserved garlic, basil, radicchio)
  • Veal tenderloin (“tramezinni” asparagus, mushrooms, sauce diable)

Drinks

I loved the Pimm’s Cup (which consisted of Pimm’s Liqueur, had a heavy ginger flavor, and was garnished with orange, mint and cucumber). The rest of the party stuck with glasses of Rose and dirty martinis.

Dessert

Black forest (chocolate sable, chantilly, bing cherries): Mixed reviews on this dessert. I thought the dessert was very rich but the portion was small, and the cherries paired perfectly with the chocolate flavors.

Service

The service was pretty good. Upon arrival, we were given champagne compliments of the house, as well as warm caraway and sourdough rolls. Our waiter was young and personable, but very knowledgeable and attentive. The time lapse between courses was slightly long, but of course we took the fact that the restaurant just opened into consideration.

We received a private tour of the kitchen and met Executive Chef Markus Glocker (formerly Chef de Cuisine at Gordon Ramsay at the London). Dining at Bâtard was a truly unique experience!

batard

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